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Mebar Tsho / Burning Lake

Sonam Dendup • Sep 14, 2020

The Burning Lake of Bumthang

Mebar Tsho is one of the holiest sites in all of Bhutan and is attributed to the treasure discoverer Terton Pema Lingpa. Holy sites in the Bhutanese language is called ‘Ney’ and as explained by Doctor Karma Phuntsho in his book ‘History of Bhutan’ a Ney is a place from where ‘Natural and spiritual energies and vibes flow from the landscape of such powerful spots, making them conducive environments for spiritual experience. Thus, spiritual persons seek such places in order to speed up and enhance their spiritual practice.’


While the Mebar Tsho is not really a lake by itself but rather a deep pool in the flowing Tang River, however mythical and spiritual stories that abound the lake make it a must visit pilgrimage site for every Bhutanese. It was from the incidents at the Lake that the Terton Pema Lingpa was recognized as an extraordinary human being working to propagate the Buddha Dharma or teachings of the Buddha. In Bhutanese and Tibetan Buddhism, Tertons are treasure discoverers born with the purpose of revealing treasures hidden by Guru Rinpoche (in the 8th Century) and their birth is also prophesized by the Guru. Treasures here mean spiritual relics or artifacts that were hidden by Guru Rinpoche (especially in Bhutan, Tibet and Nepal) to be discovered in the future. Guru envisioned that over the centuries when Buddhism will decline and when people lose faith, these Tertons will discover the hidden treasures which will enhance the teaching of the Buddha Dharma and put the faith back in the people.


 So as prophesized by Guru Rinpoche, in the 15th Century Terton Pema Lingpa in his dream was instructed to dive into the Tang river from a particular spot and extract some treasures. He followed his dream and after arriving at the site he saw a temple underwater, and instinctively he dived into the river and came back with a treasure chest of ancient relics. News of his discovery spread around the valley, which was cynically dismissed by the local chieftain and the people. To prove the authenticity of his discovery Pema Lingpa was made to dive into the river again. So, this time Pema Lingpa dived into the river holding a lit butter lamp and announced to the onlookers that if he was not telling the truth then he should drown and die or else he will be back with more treasures. After some time Pema Lingpa miraculously appeared back into dry land holding more treasures, the butter lamp still burning and his clothes as dry as hay. The people unanimously agreed that he was indeed a Terton and thus the site came to be sacred and known as the Burning Lake or Mebar Tsho. 


One of the treasures he brought back was a small statue of Dorji Sempa / Vajrasattava which is currently one of the most precious relic at the Tamzhing Lhakhang/temple.


From the road point, it is about 10-15 minutes walk to reach the lake and the whole area is adorned with colorful payer flags and a small altar to offer butter lamps.

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