Kurjey Lhakhang is one of the most sacred and holy sites of Bhutan and Kurjey translates to ‘the Body Imprint’ of Guru Padmasambhava/Guru Rinpoche, the patron saint of Bhutan. The legend behind the Kurjey Lhakhang is one of the most important event in the history of Bhutan as it relates to the visit of Guru Rinpoche. In the 8th Century, Bumthang was ruled by the benevolent King Sindhu Raja. During an on-going war with another King called Naw Chhoe (Big Nose), Sindhu Raja sought the help of the local deities including the chief deity Shelging Karpo. However in the ensuing combat, Sindhu Raja lost the battle and his son was killed. Enraged, Sindhu Raja destroyed all the structures belonging to the local deities which angered Shelging Karpo who in turn stole the life force of the King. No medicines or local healers could help the king who was almost dying. One of the King’s chief attendant sought help from Guru Rinpoche who was at that time residing in Nepal. This was Guru’s second visit to Bhutan and as destined the Guru arrived at Bumthang, blessing and consecrating numerous sites along the way.
In Bumthang Sindhu Raja appealed to the Guru and also offered his daughter Tashi Khyedon as his spiritual consort. Then, at the present site of the Kurjey Lhakhang, Guru meditated inside a cave and after his meditation performed a religious dance. Surprised and curious the local deities came out of their hiding places and instantly the Guru subdued each and every one of them except Shelging karpo who knew about Guru’s strategy. The Guru then asked Tashi Khyedon to get a pail of water in a copper vase from a nearby spring. The Guru directed the reflection of the sun on the vase towards the cave where Shelging Karpo was hiding. Intrigued with the reflection, Shelging Karpo came out of his cave and whereby he was immediately subdued.
Shelging Karpo returned the life force of the King and the Guru compelled all the subdued deities into protectors of Buddhism. Hence the King regained his health and Bumthang came to be an important pilgrimage site till date.
The cave where Guru meditated bore his body imprint and a temple was built around it. Over the centuries additional temples were built, and presently there are 3 main temples and a Zangdopelri (stupa). The whole complex is enclosed by 108 small stupas along with a huge cypress tress supposed to have grown out from Guru’s walking stick. A few minutes’ walk from the complex is the holy spring water from where Tashi Khyedon brought the water that finally helped Guru Rinpoche subdue Shelging Karpo. The spring water is supposed to have numerous medicinal and curative properties with people taking back jerry cans of the holy water home while visiting the Lhakhang.
Changangkha
Thimphu, Bhutan
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