Haa Valley – Secluded Valley of Western Bhutan

Haa Valleys Experiences

Haa Valley – Secluded Valley of Western Bhutan

Haa is one of the least developed and remote valley in western Bhutan though it is just about three hours drive away from the Paro International Airport. Bordering with Tibet and Sikkim, the picturesque and scenic Haa valley is often underrated and left out from the usual tourist itinerary. As the drive heads down from the Chelela Pass, you will notice the air suddenly begins to feel fresher and clearer and the scattered settlements will indeed evoke a medieval Bhutan of a valley suspended in time and space. Located at an altitude of 2,670 meters above the sea level, Haa is unmistakably a quite and peaceful high altitude paradise of Bhutan least visited by tourists. As the quaint valley falls into darkness you will be treated to a stunning display of nature's own firework in the night sky.

Haa, meaning esoteric hidden-ness, is a peaceful and serene valley and one of the smallest districts with the second least population. Situated by the river amid beautiful snow capped mountains, Haa valley is cool and quite with pristine environment and crisp fresh air to breathe in. People in some parts of this valley still perform the Bon rituals (an ancient religion worshipping the spirits of nature, including sun, moon, stars, mountains, rivers, lakes and sacrificing animals to appease the deities). Ap Chundu is the main local deity and he holds a special place in the lives of everyone from Haa. The people conduct major annual and smaller rituals all year round to appease him for rain, bountiful harvest and general protection. There are several religious sites dedicated to Ap Chundu, including the three majestic Meri Puensum mountains which dominate the landscape in the valley.

The people of Haa are called Haaps and are strong boned, resilient mountain people, devout Buddhists and hard working farmers who cultivate high altitude crops such as wheat, potatoes, barley and millet besides yak rearing, which is their main economic activity. The local culture and customs can be best experienced while living with locals in their homes. Excursion of Haa valley has only recently been introduced into the coffers of tourism and since then the valley has seen many picturesque farmhouses ready to welcome visitors and go that extra mile to make them feel right at home. Some of the optional sightseeing in the valley is the Haa Dzong, a fishery where you will see Bhutan’s popular brown trout and a stroll through the small town of traditional houses.

Attractions of Haa

Lhakhang Nagpo / Black Temple

By Tashi Wangmo • June 18, 2020

The Black Pigeon sent along with the white pigeon by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gyembo landed about a kilometer away from the white Temple, on top of a lake and the site where the present black Temple is built. This dark and mysterious Black Temple is a representation and residue of the tantric and bon religion practiced in the olden times. Inside the temple there is an opening in the floor that is said to lead to the lake underneath where a mermaid lives. From the top one can enjoy the view of the valley of scattered traditional houses and also the magnificent snowcapped mountains in the backdrop.

Lhakhang karpo/ White Temple

By Tashi Wangmo • June 18, 2020

Lhakhang Karpo is located on the foothills of Meri Puensum, the three towering mountains whose enormous size and mythical story will make its presence felt to anyone who visits the Lhakhang. According to legend, the current site of the temple was chosen by a white pigeon which was sent from Tibet by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gyembo (7th century) to look for a place to build 2 Temples. King Songtsen Gyembo is credited for introducing Buddhism to Tibet and he is believed to be a manifestation of the Buddha of Compassion (Avalokiteshvara) of whom the Dalai Lamas are similarly believed to be a manifestation of. The architecture of the White Temple lives up to its name with the walls painted in all white color and the design of the temple is done in a way that it depicts the true essence of traditional architecture. Currently the Temple serves as the official residence of the Haa monastic body so, during your visit one can enjoy an opportunity to exchange a few words with the monks and have photographs. Though it is restricted to visit the Lhakhang at night but the best view of the Temple can be seen at night when the Temple is lighted and with the backdrop of the mountains making it picturesque.

Chelela Pass Excursion

By Sonam Dendup • May 29, 2020

Bhutan is located in the interior Himalayas with steep high rise mountains, therefore there are numerous mountain passes that divide the valleys and a visit to Bhutan is not complete without crossing over these passes either on foot (while trekking) or by vehicle (for a usual cultural tour). One such pass is the Chelela Pass at about 3,988 meters (13,083 ft) located between the Paro and Haa valleys and is also the highest motor-able pass in Bhutan. The Pass is a little more than an hours drive from the Paro valley through the dense spruce and larch forest and depending on the season you will see various types of flowers like the Rhododendron and the occasional Yaks freely grazing in the meadows along the way. There are many interesting things to see and do at the Pass so a full day excursion with a picnic lunch is a perfect opportunity to enjoy the peace and serene environment with a few short hikes. The Blue Poppy (national Flower of Bhutan) along with different types of Rhododendron and high altitude flowers are grown nearby the Pass. From the road, it is another one-hour hike till the top of the Pass from where you can enjoy the panoramic view of the Paro and Haa valleys on either side, mountain ranges like the Mt Jomolhari, Mt Jichu Drakey and other snow capped Himalayan mountains. There are colorful prayer flags fluttering in the wind all the way from the road till the top of the Pass and you can also hoist your own prayer flags assisted by your tour guide. As per your birth year, an astrologer will consult the Divination Charts and accordingly you can purchase the appropriate prayer flags that most benefit and protect you. Another 1 hour hike downhill from the Pass will lead to the Kila Goemba Nunnery, one of the oldest nunneries in Bhutan. While most of the nuns live in self imposed isolation, however the nunnery is looked after by the nuns so you can definitely meet and interact with them. Few of the nuns may speak English so you can exchange stories and also learn about their spiritual lives. This nunnery is least visited by tourists and it will be an off the beaten path experience for you. For the adventurous travelers cycling or biking from Paro to the Pass is an exhilarating experience instead of driving. The highway does not have much traffic as there is an alternate highway from the other side of the valley, so one can enjoy the ride along the lush green landscape.