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Chumphu Nye
Sonam Dendup • May 29, 2020
The floating statue of Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi)
The Chumphu Nye is a beautiful day hike of about 7 hours along well trodden trails and though long hours however it is not strenuous. The gentle trail is mostly along the gushing river and you will come across waterfalls, holy water and sacred caves all along till the temple. A deep sense of spirituality and faith is evoked as one hikes through the peaceful forests and especially as different shapes and sizes of rocks spread all the way up to the monastery bearing deep meaning and reflecting the spiritual history of the place.
At the foothill atop which bears the monastery is a dramatic waterfall, numerous caves where Guru Padmasambhava and his consorts, dakinis and legendary scholars were believed to have meditated. Also, among many spiritual invoking sites is the holy water that seeps out of a huge solid dry rock believed to heal various diseases and give long life.
The most sacred object of the area is the floating statue of Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi) defying gravity. History has it that the statue was discovered from the lake above the Monastery, originally smaller in size but miraculously grown to the present size naturally. The caretaker of the monastery will prove to each and every visitor that the statue is indeed floating by moving a scarf back and forth under the statue. Dorje Phagmo, or the "Diamond Sow," is an incarnation of Dolma (Tara), the divine consort of Chenrezig (Buddha of Compassion).
This day long hike is a good reprieve amid cool breeze, green forests and the sound of gushing rivers calms one’s mind and soul.
Through this undisturbed tropical, sub-tropical and Alpine regions of virgin forests, waterfalls and lakes, highland nomadic villages, undisturbed nature and views of the Greater Himalayas and Snow Capped Peaks, Bhutan offers some of the best trekking experiences all year round.
The view from there is the panoramic sight of almost all the tallest Himalayan Mountain of Bhutan like majestic Gangkar Puensum, formidable Table Mountain and Tiger Mountain. As it is located at the top, the view of the Himalayan ranges is better than anywhere in the area, even as compared to famous Dochula Pass.
For Bhutanese, Gross National Happiness means a good government that creates an enabling environment for people to pursue happiness in a meaningful way. The result is a country at peace with itself, and people at peace with themselves!
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Clinging on a huge rock towards the north end of the Tang valley lies the Thowa Drak Hermitage just like the famed Tiger’s Nest Monastery in Paro. From the valley or road point it is a stiff 3 hours hike uphill through the serene and peaceful forest. Sweeping views of the Tang valley and the landscape can be enjoyed along the way with a bird’s eye view from the main site.
A quick visit to the Swiss Cheese Factory and Brewery is a refreshing alternative after visiting many temples and religious sites in the Bumthang valley. The Factory was started in the late 1960’s by a Swiss national Mr Fritz Maurer who visited Bhutan and settled in Bumthang.